051230 U.S. Version of Kobe Meat Selling Steadily

December 31, 2005

For the first time in four years, a gourmet extravagance authentic Japanese Kobe beef is allowed back into the United States.

The question is whether anyone will care. An American version of the Kobe style has taken its place on restaurant menus.

"We cannot meet demand," said Todd Hatoff, president of Allen Bros., which sells high-end beef to fine restaurants. "I don't see it going away, ever. It's not a fad."

Kobe beef is the essence of fine dining: The meat bursts with flavor, and the fat melts like butter. The best American Kobe-style steak will cost $80, $90, even $100 at a high-end steakhouse. A Kobe-style hamburger can run $40.

It tastes good because of the fat. The meat is streaked so thickly with fat, the Japanese call it "white steak."

When it's cooked, the fat melts into the meat, infusing it with flavor.

"It's very rich, very full-flavored," said Tom Schneller, assistant professor at the Culinary Institute of America. "This is the cream of the crop."

Legend has it that Japanese Kobe cattle are fed beer, massaged with sake, even soothed with soft music. Experts say beer has been used to stimulate their appetites and that sake makes for a glossy coat, on which they are graded.

But that is not how it's done in America, where ranchers believe good genetics and careful feeding are the main ingredients for quality Kobe-style beef.

"It's a great story, and we don't go out of our way to dispel the myth, but it's really not necessary," said Jay Theiler, president of Idaho-based Snake River Farms.

It starts with the cows. True Kobe beef comes from the region surrounding the city of Kobe. For centuries, the cattle was used not for meat, but to provide the muscle for rice cultivation. Consumption didn't really take off until after World War II.

The American version of Kobe beef comes from the same breed of cattle raised in Japan. Called Wagyu, a Japanese name that means "Japanese cattle," they began arriving in the United States in the 1990s.

They are fattened for much longer than the average American breed they live about 26 to 32 months, compared to 18 months for U.S. beef cattle. U.S. ranchers often crossbreed them with Angus cattle.

The beef they produce is considered better than prime the highest grade given by the U.S. Department of Agriculture.

Texas cattleman Gary Yamamoto says at least 97 percent of his Kobe-style Wagyu beef is prime. Nationwide, only about 2 percent of beef earns a prime rating.

Yamamoto, a Japanese American, is not a typical rancher. He's a professional bass fisherman with a thriving custom-lure business. He drives around his ranches with a chihuahua nestled in his lap.

While cattlemen can be private about their operations, Yamamoto chats freely confiding, for example, that the whole thing began because he was looking for a property tax break that comes with grazing livestock or planting trees.

"Once I got into it and learned all the aspects the health as well as the good taste, I was hooked," Yamamoto said.

Healthy beef? Healthy fatty beef? Absolutely, Yamamoto says he helped fund research that backs up his claim.

A Texas A&M University researcher, Stephen Smith, concluded that compared to American beef, Wagyu beef is much higher in unsaturated fat.

It has high levels of oleic acid, the fatty acid in olive and canola oils that has been shown to lower bad LDL cholesterol.


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